Tarp Shelter layouts and set ups!

Decided to go and do several different tarp shelter designs and layouts with the 5×7 tarp, Bat wing tarp, 9×7 tarp, and the latest 10×14 tarp I recently got!

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Flying Diamond pitch, Harbor Freight 5×7 tarp;

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Windward side view, first, tie upper corner to tree or post, then stake diagonal opposing corner down, then stake remaining two corners to make a wind break

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Another view of the Flying Diamond pitch with the 5×7 tarp, it does not provide much protection from rain, but is good for sun shade and possibly as a fire reflector using a pole to support the high corner.

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Batwing tarp in a symmetric diamond pitch with doors staked out on one side.

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Quarter view on windward side, the doors on the ground corner have been folded under, thus turning this tarp into a rhombus of 9 ft ridge line and 7 ft width.

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Head on windward view, the rhombus shape is all too readily apparent here, I think this is a good one man shelter, maybe two if the two people like cuddling together.

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Detail of doors on the pole side. Since the doors are not exactly vertical from the peak, they will go out past the pole or tree, and I might add tarp tie outs on the junction between the doors and the sides, so as to provide a place to stake out further, or suspend between two poles or trees.

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Another 5×7 tarp set up, Low Tetra pyramid…or “Dead Man’s bivy bag” set up due to its tiny size.

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The height of this is around 30 inches, while the width is 60 inches at the far end, and a floor length of 7 feet. This is NOT an ideal shelter for tall people, but for the average user or shorter, it would be a survivable shelter with protection from most elements.

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Windward view, one could make it feel bigger by adding a tie out/panel pull out where the sticker is on this tarp.

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Half-Pyramid open faced shelter utilizing the tan 9×7 tarp and suspended from a Douglas Fir branch.

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Windward view of the tarp shelter

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Tree side view, that is a 5×7 tarp as the ground cover, and there is plenty of room in there for up to 3 people. Best with two and gear, and with a metal pole or similar, one could have a fire in front of the pyramid shelter and be comfortable.

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Interior view with ground cloth and my MOLLE pack in there.

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10×14 tarp set up in a 6×8 narrow pyramid with approx 7 ft height.

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View of door side with door flaps closed up.

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Interior view showing the basic fold of corners and the space given.

Basically one puts tarp clips 3 feet from the corner of the door flaps, for the front, and then put tarp clips an approximate distance (in this case, 4 feet) from the corners on the back to make a 6 ft width between the back two clips, and thus providing just around 8 ft of length between the front and the back after squaring up the stake points.

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With 9×12 tarp erected using 5 more pole sections as an awning.

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Not quite lined up I know, but this gives good space under which to dine or cook or hang around in weather.

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A different pyramid set up, this oddly enough gives me a bigger floor space than the narrow one above, the doors are now 4 feet wide, and the back edge is now 8 feet wide..there is a 6×8 tarp in there, and according to my calculations and confirmed with this set up, I have a floor of 8 ft wide and 6 feet 6 inches length, thus providing me with more useful room in the shelter. Same 7 ft approximate height.

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Closed up, basically weather proof. I could cut a hole in there for a stovepipe but I do not have a stove with pipe yet.

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Side view of Leaning/half Pyramid set up.

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Windward-quarter view, showing the better pyramid shaping compared to the narrow one.

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All packed up save for the pole. I might splurge for a backpacking tarp pole if it means a smaller package than that shown above. Both the 10×14 tarp and the 6×8 ground tarp are rolled up in the bag, along with the stakes and the single long line.

Hope you enjoyed this post!

MYOG MOLLE Yucca Pack!

Made a MOLLE version of the Boy Scouts Yucca/ Green Bar Bill Pack; using 1000D DCU Cordura scraps….. Since I wanted a day pack that was in between the size of a Recon Buttpack and the size of a normal Schoolbag or the Medium Ruck sack…plus the ability to add or subtract pouches to it….I looked into my sewing fabrics drawer and out came the DCU Cordura material…I did not have enough width to make the pack the way  I make my pouches, but I had enough material to make a pack a little differently; with two side panels sewn to the main panel.

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Bare pack; with straps undone..yes the flap is ridiculously long, but its for a reason

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Flap opened up to show full height of the panel; 6 rows and 6 slots of MOLLE

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Side of pack; with 6 rows and 3 slots of MOLLE; for attachment of whatever you could want. Could thread cord through some slots and use that to compress the sides if needed?

DSCN2172Bottom of pack with 3 rows and 4 slots of MOLLE, for attachment of either MOLLE Waistpack or lashing straps for gear

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Back of pack without shoulder straps attached. The D-rings are for shoulder straps obviously, but they could also be used to strap to a frame or a larger ruck sack if one wanted to.

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Top of pack, showing the “ear flaps” to keep most weather out. I might add snaps to the edges to seal better…

DSCN2174Its like a cave of T-shirts! there’s enough space for up to 3 or 4 days of clothing in there….provided you put the rest of your camp gear outside it…as these next two pics will show!

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All packed up for a summertime/warm weather camp trip! Green sack has my modified Kelty topquilt, and then there’s the freebie Coleman inflatable pad on the bottom…the two squarish pouches holds food, first aid kit, and small batwing tarp. The long horizontal pouch holds tarp stakes, guylines, compass, misc gear.

I have two canteen pouches on this as well;

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The back showing the canteen pouches in use with canteens and cup and canteen stove; and their small pockets hold my Swiss Army Knife, and fire kit. You can see that I am using USGI LC-2 straps for backpacking duty, I could clip the pack to the black webbing harness I have which have two hooks for small packs such as this.

Hope you enjoyed this post!

 

UPDATE on this post! I have more pictures and detail shots of the pack!

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With pad and stuff sack removed, and black shotgun pouch added and small knife attached to MOLLE KA-BAR adapter. It is shown next to the small Recon Buttpack

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Better shot of the side and showing how much the three coyote pockets add to the depth of the pack

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detail shot of attachment of shotgun ammo belt pouch via ALICE to MOLLE adapter

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With green stuff sack up top

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Comparo shot of complete overnight-3 day pack next to large MYOG hiking backpack

Wall Tent Mod to USGI Pup Tent!

Made a wall tent mod to the USGI Shelter Half pup tent similar to what is described in this article from the Boy Scouts magazine;

http://books.google.com/books?id=4gGnPTm6dicC&pg=PA16&lpg=PA16&dq=Boy%27s+Life+The+Pup+Grows+Up&source=bl&ots=K1JoUu71hr&sig=VT_92khq36DyE38kqHy8Gwt1SmA&hl=en&sa=X&ei=ecFuVNWJDMLkiQLphoHwDg&ved=0CCcQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=Boy%27s%20Life%20The%20Pup%20Grows%20Up&f=false

instead of following the cut instructions in the magazine article, I decided to cut the 6 wall panels from two scrap shelter halves rectangle panels, thus making it simpler and easier to attach to the shelter halves for this mod.

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The layout for cutting; bottom piece is full length of rectangle, and 15″ tall while the two corner walls are 16″ tall and 48″ long, the extra width is for making a rolled hem on the bottom of each shorter rectangles.

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Set up using tree straps and cargo straps attached to two trees; this is the lightest set up possible (NO POLES!)

DSCN2166View into the unbuttoned end, showing the V line from single stake to the corner loops.

DSCN2167Side view, you can see the W shaped lines from the loops to the two stakes on each side; plus the V lines from the single stake to the corner loops.

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Closed up end, with single stake. I realize I could have positioned the tree straps higher so that the 14″ walls are at full height, but this is OK.

DSCN2169End opened up (5 stakes now) showing the Intex Full Size airbed, it is a little over 54″ wide, and approx 10″ tall, and 75″ long, and in this “mini wall tent”; there is plenty of space on the sides and back of the bed, with the corners only just touching the back walls, and still covered completely with the end opened up. THis is also a good set up for being in front of a fire or a small tent heater or tent stove for cold nights. The tent is also pretty heavy, so it is again, NOT a backpacking tent, but it is great for cold weather camping!

Hope you enjoyed this post! :)

 

6-man USGI shelter half set up

I’ve been quite busy this holiday season…though… I picked up two complete USGI Pup Tents, and have made this 6-man shelter out of 6 shelter halves, 12x pole sections, and four 9ft poles assembled from the Greatland Cabin tent… the external A-frame set up was a pain in the butt to do, but this was all by myself, not with another person which might’ve made it easier to set up…

using this page as a guide;

http://www.hardscrabblefarm.com/vn/tent-pitching.html

 

I followed most of the directions and made the shelter; it is around 12 feet by 12 feet octagon, with roughly 5 feet wide long edges and 4 feet corner edges, and around 8 feet tall, this shelter gives a group of people a lot of space, and depending on what they bring, has room enough for a heater or a wood stove if the pipe can go out somewhere…

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corner shot, the triangle opening is the entry opening, one could do without a 4th wall in the base and use an open face set up next to a fire with the top triangle end folded back

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sideways angle view, you see the Inverted V rope, that is part of a W shaped guy line because I did not check to make sure the top halves have snap buttons on the bottom edges..whoops

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closed up corner view. On building the base, I found I do not need to have a 4th wall to keep the other 3 suspended, so that provides another way to have entrance or one could combine multiple pieces to make for a huge communal shelter.

The whole shelter is very heavy, and would NOT be good for backpacking at all, unless spread out by people. It might be possible to carry all of it on a gear sled in winter, or a wheeled cart in spring and fall…

Well Tomorrow or so I will do other set ups and take pics!

 

 

Redone Whelen shelter set up!

I decided to try for an overnight trip out to Cascadia area in the Willamette National Forest….using my Modified Whelen setup using USGI Shelter Half parts….well. Weather took a turn for the cold and I was unable to maintain core temperatures so I had to give up the overnight part…Oh well! This set up uses 3 whole halves and two cut triangle ends from a fourth half..USGI poles and two steel poles, and 10 stakes. Took a long time to get the fire going…and I used two wool-blend blankets plus a 3/8 inch CCF foam pad underneath my modified USGI Intermediate Cold weather mummy bag….wearing wool socks, wool sweater, nylon pants and a cotton undershirt…as well as the USGI ECW parka inside the sleeping bag, I was still unable to stop the coldness from the ground.

The shelter has one half as a floor on top of an USGI poncho, while two halves are used on the top parts plus the triangle parts as panels in between the two halves.

Here are the photos of the camp set up!

DSCN2154Whelen style/Baker style set up. At first I thought I set it up way too close to the fire, but later in the evening it proved to not be the case.

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Another view of shelter set up

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Sleep area, showing the poles and the floor cloth used, along with the bags for storage of everything. I used my MYOG backpack to carry the complete shelter, and the black MSS bag to carry the wool blankets and the sleeping bag. The blue CCF pad went under the top flap.

DSCN2157Later, due to the smoke coming into the shelter, I took the awning off.

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Another view of the set up without awning

DSCN2159By this time, it was getting REAL cold, and I wasn’t sure if there was going to be some rain or snow, so I set up the awning again, but this time folded the ends over so that the wind will keep blowing the smoke out of the shelter, wind direction was mostly parallel to the shelter face.

For the next cold weather camp trip, I am going to attempt to make either an Ammo Can stove or a Popcorn Tin stove, and order polypropylene long johns for a base layer.

 

Costume finished!

Finished up my Mad Max Berserker Costume! DSCN1587

Mock up design first time around

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Close up of mock up

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Bubble helmet visor and USGI Sun Wind Dust goggles

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Alternative mock up with brown coat

 

DSCN2146Final design done; I went with different shoulder armor and the black Mosaic leather jacket, and changed belt kit layout.

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Shoulder armor; held to the leather jacket by 4 Line 24 steel snaps and an elastic strap around the biceps. The armor is basically a set of kids catcher knee/shin guards. Perfect sizing for shoulder/bicep armor..

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Detail of belt with wrenches attached.

DSCN2149Other side of belt, with old hunting bowie knife

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Berserker helmet with SCOTT face mask and USGI Sun-Wind-Dust goggles

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The face mask used to be a paintball mask; but is now attached to the red helmet using Line 24 steel snaps

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With goggles out of way, and with welders goggles on.

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helmet-less version, black scarf and vintage welders goggles.

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Armored riding boots; the armor pieces were from a catchers shin guard set..knee portions removed and the boots are simply USGI Leather Bellevue boots.

 

MYOG hiking backpack

Unable to afford or justify spending a lot of money on a backpack that has all the features I wanted; I decided to make my own pack bag to use with both my ALICE frame and Civilian Hiking frame; and  presumably is also compatible with MOLLE frames of both types; the MOLLE DEI 1603 (Standard MOLLE large frame) and MOLLE DEI 1609AC (MOLLE Medium frame now issued in USMC)… so I bought 2 yards of fabric, measured and cut patterns, and spent several hours sewing it all together… In hindsight, if I were to order a pack with these features, it would be over a 100 dollars… Oh well! the pack is a little over 55 Liters, and is pretty light…not as heavy as the ALICE pack, but not as light as the hiking backpack, mainly due to the webbing and plastic Fastex buckles..the Side Pouches are sewn like the ALICE pack pockets, basically tunneled so that I can slip long items in between the pouch and pack body. Features are;

Made of 430 Denier Nylon,

Overall size; 20″Wx22″Hx9″L

Main upper compartment 12″x9″x13″

Main lower compartment 12″x9″x9″

Upper side Pouch 9″x11″x4″

Lower side Pouch 5″x5″x3″

Attachment system; Ladder locks and 1″ webbing straps

Webbing for canteens (after finding out not enough room to sew water bottle pockets..whoops)

10 Fastex buckles, 8 frame attachment points

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Pack next to Coleman PEAK 1

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Quarter view of pack showing side pockets

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Webbing for LC canteen covers, can use for other LC pouches

DSCN2134Upper frame attachments

DSCN2135Bottom of pack

DSCN2136Drawstring panel on bottom of pack, I might make an U shaped panel with elastic on bottom to cover the drawstring panel and flap; not sure yet.

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Upper side pouch, it’s based on the MOLLE Sustainment pouch size, and uses two buckles instead of one for better securing; I do not use webbing keepers, since the straps can be used to compress pouches and hold things like folded up sweaters or tarps or poncho

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On the ALICE LC frame

DSCN2142Back view with LC frame, showing attachments

DSCN2139Bottom attachments on LC frame

DSCN2140Lower corner attachment on LC frame; it uses the round hole to attach, just like the standard ALICE pack

DSCN2141Top corner attachment to LC frame

In theory it probably would be more comfortable using either a Canadian pattern 82 suspension or MOLLE Hellcat suspension system…