Made a MOLLE pouch in classic Woodland camo for the 6.5 Grendel 20rd magazines from Duramag. This is a simple box pouch ideal for a belt kit, or magazine container.
I redid the A-Tacs pyramid tent’s fly/door closure, so that there is an overlap to keep inclement weather out. I used US Military herringbone patterned 1″ binding tape with button holes cut and sealed with a lighter, it may look slightly crude, due to not having a buttonhole attachment and proper zig zag stitch Fashion Disc for my old Singer 328K machine…but it works pretty good… Easiest to open and close from the inside, although it closes OK from the outside
Now..on to the photos!
3-quarter view in direct sunlight; there’s a slight slack on the sides, but it could be made taut by using the back pull out to another pole or to a tree, or to a ridge line.
Another 3 quarter view, mostly in shade.
Side view, please excuse the reflective glare; It shows how the crossed poles are leaning forward instead of being vertical.
Head on to the closed door; The way I set the whole thing up, I staked the back corners and the center door tie down first, then raised the tent with the poles, then staked the last corners down… it might have been better to do the door corners and doors first before the rear corners…. I may add a couple center panel pull outs to the sides if I feel it is necessary.
With one door out of the way, and other door staked down. There is room enough for 2 skinny people in there, or one person with equipment.
Close up of the herringbone tape with buttonhole slits melted into the tape and sewn to the door panel.
Close up of the Army BDU plastic buttons. I used the machine, with a riser plate, and a special button foot, hand cranked using the L and R needle positions on the machine.
Sewn up a prototype padded chest holster in Mossy Oak 500D Pack Cloth with 3/8″ closed cell foam padding. It is the first pistol rig I have ever made, and is designed for the Hi Point .45ACP Model JHP handgun. Carries 1 extra mag on it, and has extra long chest strap for big chests. Side Release buckles for retention of both handgun and magazine
view of holster loaded up.
Close up of retention strap
Back of holster, showing the stitch lines where the trigger guard stops
Emptied, showing magazine pocket and handgun retention straps undone
Mirror selfie showing how holster lays. Doesn’t seem to need another strap to stabilize it.
Close up, centered on chest
Another view offset, showing the diagonal orientation.
I find that if I bend over, it doesn’t loosen up or go awkward, but that’s with the cross strap being adjusted to as small as possible. With the main weight being on the top of the gun, and the cross strap holding the holster from that same area, it is pretty stable.
Coyote Brown BCUSA tarp in brown stuff sack next to el-cheapo pencil organizer that houses my lighter smaller Long Ogee tarp.
Damaged tab repaired, I used 1″ Cross- Grain ribbon as the reinforcement material and stitched lines to make sure it aint ever coming off!
Initial set up, Diamond fly configuration with ski poles, 2 stakes only! a little slack in the material but that’s expected of nylon fabric..
With two hammocks, more than enough space in there…. I know, I hung the hammocks too low like low hanging fruit but it’s just to give one an impression of the space available..
And with this tarp, I’ve decided I wanted to see how it would look in a vastly different configuration than most of the normal square tarp set ups…the basic layout is the same for the next 3 set ups, just the differences are all in the ridge line tie out location and the configuration of the front opening.
Front view of the tarp tent set up;
Back view of the set up, What I did is to stake the back wall down first, and then square up the side corners so that the tabs, which are evenly spaced at 2.5 ft between tie out tabs, are able to be staked down at the same locations, and then from that point between the center and the outermost stake, line up the front corners of the shelter to make a rectangle floor print of 5 ft wide and 7.5 feet long.
Side view. After I stake the sides/corners down, I then raised the front peak up as far as I could do, and then attached the two tarp clips at the points where I wanted to raise the roof/wall points on the back, to make for a nearly vertical rear wall, and then ran the lines to the ski poles and staked them down. Finally, I run the clothesline ridge line through the ridge seam tabs on the tarp and raised the rear peak up, and tied the end of the line to an overhanging branch. This in effect gives the shelter a house like roof from which rainwater will shed very well, and with the vertical walls, gives one a feeling of increased space compared to a typical A- frame.
Having seen something similar on a same size tarp, I decided to see if it would work with the ridge line peak tie out moved back 2.5 feet to the next tie out tab on the ridge seam..and bungee’d the resulting corners to bring the front down as far as I could… I disliked this set up because it robs the interior of space, and essentially makes it more a shelter you can only lay diagonally, as opposed to straight up and down.
Another view of the terrible layout. It might be OK if I had done this with the back being a normal A-frame back though.
So, keeping the same ridge line tab tied out, I decided to see what would happen if I pulled the corners the other way..and supported them with leaning poles and guy lines… this was the result. A much much better set up, and one that gives me the most spacious feel of the interior, PLUS the protection from almost all angles, the front opening is only 2.5 feet tall and 5 feet wide, a poncho or a small 5×7 tarp folded in half would have provided a great awning/door..One could also put a small piece of bug netting on that area and be fine for bug season…
The side view of it. It is essentially now a doghouse shaped shelter, and with the amount of room up front now that the gable is pulled further out, one could have a good space for cooking/gear and still be protected from the elements inside.
Rear view of the Doghouse shelter, again it is showing the rear wall layout, but also, you can see how much more open the front part looks to be compared to the first triangular opening shelter.. And the only two changes from that is the relocation of the ridge line peak tie out point and the addition of two tie out/pole points on the front sides.
With the tarp clips relocated to exactly 2.5 ft from the corners and in line with the side tabs and the ridge tab, I would say the shelter is basically a small wall tent with a front opening.
And now for something quite different! Here’s the one tree hammock stand!
First, these are the materials you need, from top to bottom;
a hammock obviously, with suspension.
an USGI General Purpose, Medium Tent center pole, telescoping, and it goes out to 10something feet, so if you ever need to have a visual cue on “not touching this with a 10ft pole”, this is it!
then the camo straps which are for both the hammock attachment and a ridge line in between the one tree and the pole,
then finally, a set of 4 cargo straps with 10″ nail style stakes larksheaded to their ends and tied to each other at their centers.
Hook up the ridge line with the camo straps, then position army pole, only extended halfway, then run the 4 green straps down to the ground, and nail them securely at a 45 degree angle.. the pole is not vertical, because that is not what you want, you want as much of the hammock load to be on the pole, and less on the lines, so angling the pole out that its around 50-60 degrees from vertical, and then make sure its not going anywhere.. then stake the lines as far as possible.. this in effect gives you a tension based system..
finally, hook up the hammock to the pole and tree strap.
Another view of the system, with my massive lumbar pack hanging off a steel hook I mounted on the tree strap. Sharp eyed readers will note that I have a whoopie sling in between the two straps on the ridge line, this is to make it easy to maintain tension…
With the 10×10 tarp set up in an almost ordinary set up… first I put the side up with the poles, then I staked the center of the other side to make a half-diamond shape..then I staked out the “door” sides on the covered side. This gives me a good balance of wind proofing from one side, and yet a nice porch mode on the other side… with the amount of space in there, I can have a 2nd hammock underneath if I dare do so, or an army cot, or a camp chair or two..
Side view of the set up. I did not stake the lefthand door as close to the ground as the other side is, but it still works here. With the short hammock ridge line, the 10 ft tarp covers me very well…only problem is the gear hanging out in the rain, but a poncho over it will give it the protection it needs.
Hope you enjoyed this post!
My small MOLLE Yucca daypack is now doing duty as a beefy lumbar pack on a MOLLE waist belt set up and H harness set up… the main modifications involved were very extensive, basically a whole panel of MOLLE webbing on the back of the pack, plus 4 Ladder-loc buckles at specific locations to function better as a lumbar pack.. With some adjustment on how I attached my MOLLE Sustainment Pouches, I found that it functions better, and gives me some space in the main sack and on the outside… instead of taking up all 12 MOLLE slots on the perimeter for the two Sustainment Pouches, I have spaced it so that each pouch only takes up 5 slots each (for 10 slots), and a gap of 2 MOLLE slots in between for my Nalgene carrier and small misc item pouch. This also provides me with a convenient route for the flap straps..
The pack. The top stuff sack houses my hammock and bugnet and suspension, while the MOLLE Sustainment pouches each hold the kelty topquilt and the hammock under pad insulation, and the main sack holds my clothing. The nalgene carrier in the lower middle houses an IKEA kitchen caddy turned into a wood burning stove, and the Buschraft Outfitters 10×10 silnylon tarp in Coyote brown.
View of the waist belt set up; the large pouch holds my food and cook set, while the smaller pouch holds my first aid kit and fire kit, then between the canteen and the pouches are two modified 40mm ammo pouches, one holds my 4.5″ blade knife, the other holds a small 2AA Angle-head flashlight. Obviously there are two water bottles on the belt at the kidney positions.
Belt opened up, you can see how there’s quite a bit of padding, the belt pad is size Medium, and is basically perfect as a waist belt on this pack system. You can also see the suspension straps for the pack.
The MOLLE panel for the back, Instead of a normal method of alternating straps, I decided to fill the whole panel with butted straps so that I have basically as many options for attaching it to whatever I want to.
The upper harness attachment system, what it is, is essentially a load lifter system, the pack’s D-rings are the anchors, while the harness adjuster only serves to locate the top point, and the Ladder-locs on the flap is the main adjusting point.. because I do not have internal stays on the pack, this method is needed to get the pack to ride as close to the back as possible.
For those wondering how’d I attach the pack to the waistbelt… these are the 4 5″ long MOLLE straps I made up from the scraps I have on hand.
A pic of the modified 40mm pouch, the only mods needed is the addition of a snap below the original snap to enable me to securely close the flap for better retention of the knife.
Decided to see what the MOLLE compression panels could take, and set up a backpack system in which the main bag is removable and contains all of my hammock camping gear cept tarp and suspension tree straps!
Pack with everything loaded onto it
Side view with hatchet mounted
Other side view with knife and flashlight
Bottom view, that is a vintage M1967 sleep system carrier being used as the bottom panel.
Suspension view. Even though this frame is obsolete, and usually not comfortable with ALICE packs…it works pretty good for this load because of the packing system.
The pack contains the following items;
In the WW2 laundry bag stuff sack;
Kelty top quilt
In each of the 4x USMC Coyote brown pouches;
First aid kit (marked with red cross)
cook set and fire kit
back up hammock/gear hammock (Grand Trunk UltraLite)
In the MOLLE Water bottle carriers are the water bottles (self explanatory)
USGI M16 pouches carries my tarp in one, and hammock suspension in other
IDF revolver ammo/handcuff pouch houses my compass
Green Buttpack up top carries my clothes for up to 3 days
horizontal MOLLE pouch on very top carries my stakes, cordage, bandannas.
I do have room enough in the WW2 laundry bag to carry more insulation if I need to.
I notice that the MOLLE compression panels will likely need a 3rd buckle in the middle, and 2 more straps to attach to the frame, so that it compresses better around the main stuff sack.
Modded my black harness to provide two attachment points for my small Yucca pack lower straps, and redid the pack set up!
Harness without pack
With pack attached
Back view of harness and pack connected; you can see the two extra Fastex buckles being used to connect pack lower straps to the harness
Side view of the pack; the side pockets are to hold food and misc items.
detail shot of upper pack attachment, the harness padding part has a couple of metal snap hooks to attach to D-ring equipments.. the harness upper part is from a black M1967 web harness from Rothco I believe.
detail of the lower pack strap attachment. Its simply a sewn loop strap, girth-hitched onto the D ring.
Another detail shot, showing the strap connecting to the buckle which is attached to the harness permanently.
Detail shot of Army hatchet mount between the MOLLE Sustainment Pouch and the main pack
shot of pack without the harness.
Detail of Right-hand panel of the harness.
Load out is as follows;
In the main pack, I have the following items.
Hammock and kelty top quilt in main compartment with Whoopie Slings attached to hammock
USGI CCF pad under top flap
3-4 days worth of clothes in MOLLE Sustainment Pouch
Hatchet in between Sustainment Pouch and Main pack
foods in 3 side pockets, large foods in the USMC Coyote Brown pockets and small foods in one camo pocket, while the final camp pocket holds the tree straps for the hammock and a bandanna and headlamp
Moving on to the harness;
2x 1qt water bottles in MOLLE canteen covers; one is a Nalgene bottle, the other is a Life-line canteen with an Army canteen cup
handgun with ammo
first aid kit in one black pocket
Long Ogee tarp in second black pocket
hammock bugnet in long green pouch
tarp lines and stakes in shotgun ammo pouch (no shotgun ammo)
compass in compass pouch
Mini Maglite behind black pocket
4.5″ blade knife behind other black pocket
Esbit stove and fire kit in third black pocket
snacks and misc items in fourth black pocket
handgun ammo magazines in USGI mag pockets attached to two black pockets
With this load out, the entire kit should be good for 3-4 days of hiking and traveling in the woodlands…
Decided to see how tent pole sections work with the Long Ogee tarp over a hammock!
4 sections of ~21″ tent pole with shock cord; tied to tie outs via Paracord
It looks like the ENO DryFly with doors… only 4 stakes!
Sideways view; I used the green tree straps with hooks for the tarp attachment, and did a truckers hitch on one side to get it taut.
how it looks from the inside, with whoopie sling attached to tree strap;
Sorry for little blurry pic, I couldn’t find my mitten hooks or webbing pockets, so I used the paracord sections to tie the pole sections to the tie outs
View of the interior from the hammock.
Decided to go and do several different tarp shelter designs and layouts with the 5×7 tarp, Bat wing tarp, 9×7 tarp, and the latest 10×14 tarp I recently got!
Flying Diamond pitch, Harbor Freight 5×7 tarp;
Windward side view, first, tie upper corner to tree or post, then stake diagonal opposing corner down, then stake remaining two corners to make a wind break
Another view of the Flying Diamond pitch with the 5×7 tarp, it does not provide much protection from rain, but is good for sun shade and possibly as a fire reflector using a pole to support the high corner.
Batwing tarp in a symmetric diamond pitch with doors staked out on one side.
Quarter view on windward side, the doors on the ground corner have been folded under, thus turning this tarp into a rhombus of 9 ft ridge line and 7 ft width.
Head on windward view, the rhombus shape is all too readily apparent here, I think this is a good one man shelter, maybe two if the two people like cuddling together.
Detail of doors on the pole side. Since the doors are not exactly vertical from the peak, they will go out past the pole or tree, and I might add tarp tie outs on the junction between the doors and the sides, so as to provide a place to stake out further, or suspend between two poles or trees.
Another 5×7 tarp set up, Low Tetra pyramid…or “Dead Man’s bivy bag” set up due to its tiny size.
The height of this is around 30 inches, while the width is 60 inches at the far end, and a floor length of 7 feet. This is NOT an ideal shelter for tall people, but for the average user or shorter, it would be a survivable shelter with protection from most elements.
Windward view, one could make it feel bigger by adding a tie out/panel pull out where the sticker is on this tarp.
Half-Pyramid open faced shelter utilizing the tan 9×7 tarp and suspended from a Douglas Fir branch.
Windward view of the tarp shelter
Tree side view, that is a 5×7 tarp as the ground cover, and there is plenty of room in there for up to 3 people. Best with two and gear, and with a metal pole or similar, one could have a fire in front of the pyramid shelter and be comfortable.
Interior view with ground cloth and my MOLLE pack in there.
10×14 tarp set up in a 6×8 narrow pyramid with approx 7 ft height.
View of door side with door flaps closed up.
Interior view showing the basic fold of corners and the space given.
Basically one puts tarp clips 3 feet from the corner of the door flaps, for the front, and then put tarp clips an approximate distance (in this case, 4 feet) from the corners on the back to make a 6 ft width between the back two clips, and thus providing just around 8 ft of length between the front and the back after squaring up the stake points.
With 9×12 tarp erected using 5 more pole sections as an awning.
Not quite lined up I know, but this gives good space under which to dine or cook or hang around in weather.
A different pyramid set up, this oddly enough gives me a bigger floor space than the narrow one above, the doors are now 4 feet wide, and the back edge is now 8 feet wide..there is a 6×8 tarp in there, and according to my calculations and confirmed with this set up, I have a floor of 8 ft wide and 6 feet 6 inches length, thus providing me with more useful room in the shelter. Same 7 ft approximate height.
Closed up, basically weather proof. I could cut a hole in there for a stovepipe but I do not have a stove with pipe yet.
Side view of Leaning/half Pyramid set up.
Windward-quarter view, showing the better pyramid shaping compared to the narrow one.
All packed up save for the pole. I might splurge for a backpacking tarp pole if it means a smaller package than that shown above. Both the 10×14 tarp and the 6×8 ground tarp are rolled up in the bag, along with the stakes and the single long line.
Hope you enjoyed this post!
Made a MOLLE version of the Boy Scouts Yucca/ Green Bar Bill Pack; using 1000D DCU Cordura scraps….. Since I wanted a day pack that was in between the size of a Recon Buttpack and the size of a normal Schoolbag or the Medium Ruck sack…plus the ability to add or subtract pouches to it….I looked into my sewing fabrics drawer and out came the DCU Cordura material…I did not have enough width to make the pack the way I make my pouches, but I had enough material to make a pack a little differently; with two side panels sewn to the main panel.
Bare pack; with straps undone..yes the flap is ridiculously long, but its for a reason
Flap opened up to show full height of the panel; 6 rows and 6 slots of MOLLE
Side of pack; with 6 rows and 3 slots of MOLLE; for attachment of whatever you could want. Could thread cord through some slots and use that to compress the sides if needed?
Back of pack without shoulder straps attached. The D-rings are for shoulder straps obviously, but they could also be used to strap to a frame or a larger ruck sack if one wanted to.
Top of pack, showing the “ear flaps” to keep most weather out. I might add snaps to the edges to seal better…
All packed up for a summertime/warm weather camp trip! Green sack has my modified Kelty topquilt, and then there’s the freebie Coleman inflatable pad on the bottom…the two squarish pouches holds food, first aid kit, and small batwing tarp. The long horizontal pouch holds tarp stakes, guylines, compass, misc gear.
I have two canteen pouches on this as well;
The back showing the canteen pouches in use with canteens and cup and canteen stove; and their small pockets hold my Swiss Army Knife, and fire kit. You can see that I am using USGI LC-2 straps for backpacking duty, I could clip the pack to the black webbing harness I have which have two hooks for small packs such as this.
Hope you enjoyed this post!
UPDATE on this post! I have more pictures and detail shots of the pack!
With pad and stuff sack removed, and black shotgun pouch added and small knife attached to MOLLE KA-BAR adapter. It is shown next to the small Recon Buttpack
Better shot of the side and showing how much the three coyote pockets add to the depth of the pack
detail shot of attachment of shotgun ammo belt pouch via ALICE to MOLLE adapter
With green stuff sack up top
Comparo shot of complete overnight-3 day pack next to large MYOG hiking backpack